YOU are called to SERVE in the GRAND ARMY!

Shirts

Best: Hand-stitched in white, natural, or checked linen or wool flannel with full sleeves gathered into narrow (~ ½ ” finished) cuffs. Checked linen was most commonly blue on a predominantly white ground (not the evenly balanced blue/white gingham check found in many shirts being sold). Cuffs close with sleeve buttons (side-by-side “cuff links”). Collar closes with two or three thread (Dorset) buttons. Center front slit is deep (~10-12”) and may be kept closed with a shirt buckle  (usually round or heart-shaped). For most impressions, collar is pulled up high and worn snugly closed around neck. Body is long (to lower thigh) and full.

 

Acceptable: Machine-stitched versions of the above

 

Unacceptable: Synthetic fabrics. Modern shirts. Shirt collars worn like modern collars (low on the neck and falling over the neck cloth leaving only the front knot exposed).

 

Neckwear

Best: White, linen, cotton, or silk, hand-hemmed  handkerchiefs (30-36"" square), or a neck cloth (long narrow rectangle). Neck cloths sometimes had short fringe at the ends and often filled in the upper portion of a partially unbuttoned waistcoat; this is best worn by older men because it’s somewhat old-fashioned in 1775. Colored and patterned handkerchiefs (block-printed, yarn-dyed, resist-dyed) were worn for laboring or by lower sorts. Handkerchiefs and neck cloths were most commonly tied snugly over the collar which should be pulled straight up, with collar completely hidden or collar points extending neatly over the top of the neckwear. For those portraying officers, a white linen or cotton stock.

 

Acceptable: Machine-hemmed versions of the above

 

Unacceptable: No neckwear. Synthetic fabrics. Handkerchiefs with modern pattern motifs. Paisleys. Jabots. Ruffled stocks. Military horsehair or leather neck stocks. Neckwear worn loose and covered by the shirt collar turned down.

 

Hats & Caps

Best: Hand-finished, round-blocked hats made of black wool or beaver felt, cut round, lined with linen, and left plain or cocked in appropriate non-military styles.

 

Acceptable: Round-blocked or oval blocked hats made of black wool or beaver felt, cut round, left plain or cocked in appropriate non-military styles (no cockade or decorative tape/edge binding). Machine- or hand-knitted wool “Monmouth” or Dutch sailor’s caps with small brim, commonly with some height and slouch to them, in solid natural wool colors or striped as seen in period images.

 

Unacceptable: No hat or cap outdoors. Brown or gray felt hats. Colored felt hats. Unfinished (unshaped and unstyled) wool felt hat blanks worn as slouch hats. Straw hats. Hats with feathers, pipes, money, animal fur, and other trinkets tucked into them. Military-style cocked hats, or hats with decorative tape /edge binding and cockades. Stocking caps. Modern knitted winter caps. Synthetic knitted caps. Fur caps/hats, sheepskin hats, modern hats or modern caps of any kind.

 

Coats & Jackets

Best: Hand-stitched, well-fitted coat or jacket of drab, brown, green, red, blue, gray or black wool OR linen. Coats may be straight-bodied (more old fashioned) or in a more fitted cutaway style. Coats and jackets were worn in all seasons. Coats are approximately knee-length. Jackets are generally a hip-length version of a coat with shorter, pleated skirts, cuffs and a collar. Coats should be worn with a waistcoat (sleeved or sleeveless). Buttoned jackets do not require a waistcoat worn under them. Coats and jackets should fit well and relatively snug. Sleeves of outer garment should be fitted and short enough to show the wristband of the shirt (unlike most modern outer garments).

 

Acceptable: A machine-stitched version of the above (or no coat ONLY in exceedingly hot weather)

 

Unacceptable: Regimental coats of any kind, hunting shirts or frocks, farmer's smocks

 

Waistcoats

Best: Hand-stitched skirted single or double breasted waistcoat, well-fitted (snug) of drab, brown, green, red, blue, gray or black wool. 1770s waistcoats are hip-length and waistcoat front should cover the breeches buttons before cutting away. The waistcoat neckline should be small and well-fitted around the base of the collar.

 

Acceptable: Hand or machine-stitched single or double breasted waistcoat, well-fitted (snug) of drab, brown, green, red, blue, gray or black wool OR linen in natural, blue, brown, or balanced stripes. 1770s waistcoats are hip-length and waistcoat front should cover the breeches buttons before cutting away. The waistcoat neckline should be small and well-fitted around the base of the collar. Round cut waistcoats that end at the waistband of the breeches will be accepted, provided they meet the above criteria. Sleeved waistcoat as outer layer, provided it fits the above description

 

Unacceptable: Baggy or extremely long waistcoats. Waistcoats made from cotton canvas, damask upholstery fabric or any fabric other than wool or linen as described above. No waistcoat (unless wearing a fully buttoned jacket). Military style waistcoats, and belted wasitcoats will not be accepted

 

Breeches & Trousers

Best: Hand or machine-stitched (ideally hand finished), well-fitted breeches in black, brown, drab (most common colors), gray, green, blue or red wool broadcloth. Other types of acceptable fabrics include wool kersey, linsey-woolsey, wool serge, cotton velvet, fine wale cotton corduroy, or wool plush. Breeches of undyed buckskin leather. For hot weather, breeches/trousers made of linen in natural, brown, blue, or balanced stripes are acceptable.  Buckled knee bands were most common as they held up the stockings well. Tied knee bands were common on leather breeches, or for cheaper breeches for the lower sort. Breeches knee band closed with a button and buttonhole are also appropriate but less common. Hand or machine-stitched trousers of wool broadcloth, wool kersey or linsey-woolsey. FIT - Overall snug fit for breeches and trousers, except the baggy seat (to allow ease of movement). Knee band fitted snugly just below the knee to hold up the stockings. For exceedingly hot weather, hand-stitched, well fitted linen or hemp canvas breeches or trousers in natural, blue or brown are acceptable or trousers in a period-appropriate check linen

 

Acceptable: Machine-stitched version of the above

 

Unacceptable: Breeches made from cotton canvas, Baggy, poorly fitting breeches. Calf-length breeches. Fringed suede frontier-style trousers. Synthetic fabrics. Modern pants, modified or not.

 

Stockings & Socks

Best: Densely knit stockings of wool, linen, or cotton. Colors are white/cream, natural, blue, brown, gray, or black, also “mixed”. Stocking length is above the knee. Frame-knit stockings (or socks for trousers) knit flat to shape and stitched up the center back to form a visible seam. [These are commercially unavailable at the time of this writing.] Hand-knit stockings or socks knit in the round to shape with a faux seam of purl stitches up the center back. Plain knit and vertically ribbed stockings (all one color) are both documented for men. Stockings cut and sewn from knit fabric yardage using an accurate pattern. Gore clocks (embellishment on both sides of the ankle) are subtle and same-color. Choose clocked stockings with caution, match to your impression, and be aware many modern reproductions are not accurate. Lastly, stockings should be held up by the knee band of the breeches (read: no visible garters)

 

Acceptable: Hand or machine-made stockings that fit above the knee, densley knit of wool, linen, or cotton in white/cream, natural, blue, brown, gray, black, or “mixed”, with or without a center back seam. (see details for frame-knit stockings in the Addendum). NB: Cloth tape garters should be hidden, but better yet, tighten the fit of the knee bands to hold up the stockings.

 

Unacceptable: Red, yellow, or green stockings or socks. Striped stockings, synthetic stockings, athletic socks. Elaborate knit patterns such as cables 

and textures. Diced (Highland) hose. Buckled leather garters (these were military issue). Visible garters of any kind.

 

Half Gaiters/Spatterdashes

Best: Hand-stitched, well-fitted spatterdashes (also called half-gaiters) of black, brown, or drab wool, or black leather. Spatterdashes were intended to protect the shoes and stockings from dirt and excessive wear. No spatterdashes are necessary over appropriately-styled shoes.

 

Acceptable: Hand or machine-stitched, well-fitted spatterdashes, (also called half-gaiters) of black, brown, or drab wool, or black leather. Well-fitted black, brown or drab cotton or linen canvas. Spatterdashes were intended to protect the shoes and stockings from dirt and excessive wear. Spatterdashes are not necessary over appropriately-styled shoes. Well-fitted spatterdashes must be worn over modern shoes (see “Shoes”) if beginners do not have appropriately-styled reproduction shoes.

 

Unacceptable: Baggy or droopy spatterdashes, wool leggings, Indian leggings. Tall, knee-length F&I style gaiters, military-style gaiters with the center back point.

 

Shoes

Best: Hand-constructed, appropriately styled shoes with period-style buckles and black leather uppers.

 

Acceptable: Hand or machine-stitched, appropriately styled shoes with period-style buckles and black leather uppers. Hand or machine-stitched, appropriately styled shoes, occasionally with ties (one hole only on each latchet), for a lower sort impression. Black leather tied half-boots are less common, generally for stable boys, grooms, and huntsmen. Knee-high leather boots are acceptable for horse-riders only. Modern black leather shoes with a distinct heel and a smooth toe (no pieced/stitched/decorated leather at the toe) may be worn but must be covered by well-fitted spatterdashes (see “Spatterdashes”) so that they appear to be period-appropriate shoes.

 

Unacceptable: Shoes with no distinct heel. Fake buckles. Modern shoes without spatterdashes. Obviously modern shoes, such as hiking boots, sneakers, lug soles, etc. Shoes that visibly lace up with more than one hole on each side. Moccasins. Civil War bootees.

 

Canteens

Best: Cheesebox or staved wooden canteen with interlocking wooden hoops (not iron/metal). Wooden canteens should have narrow 1" wide leather keepers, slung with a narrow cord/string, narrow woven hemp strap, or narrow leather strap. Period-correct wooden rundlet. If you are unable to acquire one of the aforementioned options, you may use a leather bottle (jack) or modern water bottle in a linen drawstring bag. Either of these must be carried in a pocket or knapsack and kept out of sight when not in use.

 

Acceptable: Staved canteens with fake/non-interlocking wooden hoops, or iron/metal hoops. Kidney, crescent or oval tin canteens

 

Unacceptable: Gourds. flasks, glass or ceramic bottles or jugs (covered or uncovered). Stainless steel canteens, fabric-covered canteens. Modern water bottles not concealed in a linen drawstring bag, large keepers on wooden canteens. Cotton webbing straps.

 

Knapsacks

Best: Hand-sewn plain single-pouch bag that conforms to the Captain David Uhl pattern. An “Uhl” pack should be made out of hemp canvas or heavy weight linen with a flap closure and two shoulder straps made of the same material as used for the bag. The flap should be closed with three buttons and buttonholes.

 

Acceptable: Machine-sewn version of the above

 

Unacceptable: Haversacks, Elisha Grose packs, Warner packs, Isaac Royal House knapsacks, British painted or goatskin knapsacks. “Snapsacks” (linen tubes with a drawstring at one end and one strap). Cotton canvas two-strap knapsacks. No knapsack, Market wallet or blanket roll in lieu of a knapsack.

 

Blankets

Best: Handwoven wool or linsey-woolsey. Blankets may be either “imported” (a solid piece of material) or “colonial” (a seam down the middle where the two halves are joined). Appropriate blanket patterns include striped, checked, and plaid, and should closely resemble period blankets. 2- or 3-point blankets, rose blankets, Dutch blankets, and solid colored blankets are all appropriate. Solid colors include off-white, red, blue, and drab. Blankets can be tied to a pack or carried on a leather or hemp tumpline.

 

Acceptable: Hand or machine-woven wool or linsey-woolsey in plain, off-white, red, blue, or drab wool blankets. Modified Army/Navy blankets cut down to a smaller, more appropriate size (~60-65” wide). Appropriate blanket patterns include striped, checked, and plaid, and should closely resemble period blankets. 2- or 3-point blankets, rose blankets, Dutch blankets, and solid colored wool blankets are all appropriate. Solid colors include off-white, red, blue, and drab. Blankets can be tied to a pack or carried on a leather or hemp tumpline.

 

Unacceptable: No blanket, Civil War gray blankets, WWI/WWII OD Green blankets, modern blankets, blankets made of synthetic materials (such asn polar fleece), Hudson Bay blankets, blankets not large enough to sufficiently cover an average-sized person.

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Bladed Sidearms

Best: Waist or shoulder belt mounted bayonet, hunting sword or cutlass appropriately sheathed. For officers, a small sword appropriately sheathed.

 

Acceptable: Waist or shoulder belt mounted bayonet, hunting sword or cutlass appropriately sheathed. For officers, a small sword appropriately  sheathed. Hatchets or tomahawks carried in a belt, the cutting edge sheathed in leather. No bladed side arm.

 

Unacceptable: Plug bayonets, hunting knives, knives with uncarved anter/bone handles, modern knives. Unsheathed bayonets and swords.

 

Firelocks

Best: New England-made fowling piece with or without retrofitting for a bayonet. American-made replicas of British 1st Model (Long Land Pattern) muskets, old French (1728) models

 

Acceptable: British 2nd Model (Short Land Pattern or "Brown Bess") muskets, French 1763/6 "Charleville" muskets.

 

Unacceptable: Rifles, Dutch muskets, dog lock muskets, blunderbusses, pistols

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Cartridge Pouches/Boxes

Best: New England style soft cartridge pouches in black or fair leather with 17-19-round cartridge blocks, narrow (~ 2” wide) black or buff leather straps, or linen webbing shoulder straps. Small, simple leather shot pouches with narrow leather shoulder straps or belt loops, fitted with a wooden block, accompanied by an EMPTY powder horn. Belly boxes. Cartridge pouch should be worn high on hip bone, almost to the waist.

 

Acceptable: Same as above

 

Unacceptable: British 36- or 29-hole cartridge pouch (except for British Regular Army). New Model (29-hole) American pouches. Tin cartridge canisters. Soft cartridge pouches with a 24-round block. The pattern most commonly available is prone to dumping cartridges if the flap is not secured before moving. It is also not appropriate for 1775.* Cotton webbing,  ""Indian"" or "Wampum" style straps, low-hanging pouches. Pouches should not be adorned with words or letters/numbers

 

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Powder Horns

Best: Plain, empty, powder horn with narrow leather strap or woven linen/hemp strap. A powder horn is not necessary as long as you have a cartridge pouch.

 

Acceptable: Same as above

 

Unacceptable: Horns filled with black powder. Native-styled powder horns.

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Jewelry

Best: No jewelry. Period-appropriate original or reproduction pocket watch (but only for those who could afford them) kept in breeches fob (small pocket set into breeches waistband). Period-appropriate shirt buckle to close bosom slit on shirt. Simple wedding bands

 

Acceptable: Same as above

 

Unacceptable: Any jewelry, including piercings, that is not listed above.

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Eyeglasses

Best: Original period-correct glasses with round (not oval) lenses. Or contact lenses if you can wear them

 

Acceptable: Reproduction period-appropriate frames with round lenses. If you have a medical condition that requires tinted lenses, please contact us

 

Unacceptable: Modern-framed glasses. 19th century oval frames. Tinted lenses or sunglasses (unless for a medical condition - see above).

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Hair

Best: Natural shoulder-length hair or long hair tied back in a queue with a black silk ribbon. A natural hair wig dressed in a period style.

 

Acceptable: Natural shoulder-length hair or long hair tied back in a queue with a black silk ribbon. Or, a natural hair wig dressed in a period style. Or short-cropped hair in a modest, current style, covered with a hat or cap. Or, a hair extension or false queue. Also, no wig/hairpiece in hot weather provided hair is natural color (i.e. not dyed something not a natural color)"

 

Unacceptable: Obviously synthetic wigs (they glint in the sun), like those found at a costume shop, often low on the forehead. Hair dyed in a color that is not a natural hair color. Visible modern elastics, headbands, or scrunchies.

 

Facial Hair

Best: Completely clean shaven

 

Acceptable: Clean shaven, or maximum 3-days even stubble. Runners (ear-length sideburns) on younger fashion-oriented men are acceptable. 

Note: If you customarily wear a moustache, goatee or other partial facial hair, you must remove it entirely, as even the shadow of a moustache, goatee, or specially trimmed beard will appear inappropriate for the period."

 

Unacceptable: Full beards, moustaches (goatees, soul patches, etc.) Any facial hair beyond a 3-day all-over stubble growth.

 

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